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Fire Resistant File Cabinets

Tax records, customer lists, deeds, and accounting documents are the kind of files that need protection in a fire resistant cabinet. Look for a file cabinet that has passed your requirements for UL fire, explosion and impact ratings. Then choose a cabinet that meets your security, storage and space requirements. The newest styles complement contemporary or traditional decor.

Depository Safes

If you have a high traffic retail business, where a lot of cash is handled, you may benefit from a depository safe.
When a business needs to stash away cash or valuables during working hours, a depository safe provides convenience and short-term security on the premises. Depository safes come in a range of designs that allow options on lock compartments, drop slots, locking systems, and fire / security ratings.

Media Safes

If you keep computer media on your premises, it should be stored in a media safe. Because CDs, computer disks, microfiche and other types of electronically-stored information are more sensitive than paper to heat, moisture, and magnetic fields, a data safe plays a critical role in protecting irreplaceable records. This specialized safe protects against magnetic fields, fire, burglary, tampering, and dust. Data safes should carry a one- or two-hour UL fire and impact rating.

Burglary Resistant Composite Safes

These safes are designed to resist sophisticated attempts to reach your valuables. They can be used at home or in the office to secure papers and documents, jewelry, cash, and other valuables. For those whose primary concern is theft protection, a burglary resistant safe should carry a minimal UL burglary rating of RSC (residential security container) or higher. These safes are constructed with varying degrees of fire protection.

C-rated Composite Safe

This safe is specifically designed for those who are primarily concerned about theft protection -- but still want to protect against fire. The C-rated composite safe is constructed with 2 1/2" walls and a 4 1/2" door thickness consisting of high density concrete material (9200 psi) on all six sides. Pound for pound and dollar for dollar, this safe protects from physical attack better than many safes of the same size because of the high density material from which it is constructed. The C-rated composite safe offers 1/2 hour UL fire label protection. These units are equivalent to an all-steel safe with 1/2" solid steel walls and 1" solid steel doors.

E-rated Composite Safes

These safes are geared for the commercial market because they offer greater theft protection than C-rated safes by virtue of their 3 1/2" walls and 5 1/2" doors, all constructed with high-density concrete material. (FIRE PROTECTION?) These units are equivalent to an all-steel safe with 1" walls and 1 1/2" thick doors and qualify for E-rated burglary insurance coverage (contact your insurance company for exact requirements).
Fire Resistant Safes

When protection against fire is a real concern, a safe with a UL fire rating will provide confidence against this threat. To get the fire protection you need, look for a UL class 350 fire label that designates half-hour, one-hour, or two-hour fire protection. UL listed fire resistant safes are offered here in a range of sizes and UL security ratings.

In-Floor Safes

These safes are easily concealed and tough to penetrate. They provide economic protection and come in various sizes. Your local cement contractor can install an in-floor safe in your home or office.

Choosing a gun safe

When you buy a gun, you need to buy a gun safe as well. Period. And it’s not just for safety reasons.
Most safes on the market today will do a good job of protecting your guns from curious children. What all of them won’t do well is protect your guns from burglars. Many criminals get their hands on weapons by breaking into the homes of known gun owners and stealing them.
When protecting your guns from theft, all safes are not created equal. Here’s what to look for when you’re buying a gun safe. Make sure it can be bolted down. The most important thing a burglar needs in order to crack a safe is time. And they won’t get that in your house. That’s why most burglars will physically remove the entire, unopened gun safe to a more secure place, where they have unlimited time to get it open. Even very heavy gun safes can be moved—many burglars bring dollies with them just in case. That’s why it’s crucial to avoid buying a gun safe that can’t be bolted to the floor—preferably a cement floor.

Look for an alarm. Some safes come with automatic alarms that go off the moment someone tries to break into your safe. If your gun safe is bolted down and the thieves decide to take a crack at it in your home, the alarm will put a great deal of pressure on them to get done in a hurry. It could put them off stealing it altogether.
Make sure the housing for the lock is protected. Some burglars will try to drill into your lock in order to get it open. Some safe manufacturers create ingenious ways to keep that drill from hitting the interior housing for the lock. One way involves two thick metal plates with a layer of ball bearings between. When a drill hits the ball bearing layer, it can’t move forward—there’s no friction. The ball bearings often break off the drill bit as well. Other manufacturers design other ways, such as angled plates to deflect the drill bit away from the lock house.
Look for a relocker. This is a device that will cause the lock to close again if it is broken open. It won’t protect the contents of the safe forever, but it is very effective in making the break-in process more complicated—which is a definite deterrent for burglars.

Look for as few welded seams as possible. Amateur thieves will try to break through your lock to get to your guns. But the real pros know that your safe’s weakest points are where the metal has been welded together. To stop burglars from attacking your seams first, look for a safe that has as few exposed seams as possible.
Thicker is better—and not just on the door. Look for a safe with a good metal thickness—no thinner than 10-guage—all around. Many safe manufacturers will produce safes with thick doors but thin bodies. A safe cracker with any skill will know which safes are vulnerable in the body—and will bypass the door to go in through the side or roof of the safe. Make sure your sides, top and bottom are just as thick and strong as your safe’s door.
Hinges should be on the inside. Exposed hinges are another point of attack for anyone trying to break into your safe. If your hinges can be damaged or removed, the door can be broken into. Many safe manufacturers will advertise super-strong hinges, but no matter how strong a set of hinges are, they’re better off if the thieves can’t get to them.
Look for a warranty. Only buy from a safe manufacturer that has confidence in its product. The best warranties will replace or repair your safe for free if it is damaged by a break-in attempt—although many will ask that you ship it back with a police report.

The bottom line is that you can’t have too much safe. Buy a safe that will accommodate your gun collection as it grows. Most importantly, don’t think cheap when it comes to the safe that’s supposed to protect your valuables—because you’ll get what you pay for. You can’t expect a $300 safe to do a good job protecting $20,000 worth of firearms—buy a safe that does justice to your collection. If you do, your guns should stay safe and secure.